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Guest Post

Homeowner Tool Box Essentials

By Lynn Olszewski

 

The beginning of a new year is a great time for organization and re-organization.  There will be lots of home tips and advice presented in the UHS newsletters this year and I thought it was appropriate to begin this new year with an article addressing a good first step to make caring for your home easier.

When I moved out from my parents’ house and started taking care of myself, at my mother’s suggestion I put together my first tool box.

It was a small red tackle-like box I kept under the kitchen sink.  I liked to see it there.  It made me feel independent.  I was proud to have the my own tools to hang my own pictures and tighten my own nuts and bolts. I didn’t need to call for help- or wait for it!

Throughout this time- I learned that just like my kitchen tools- the quality of my home tools mattered too.  Along the way I have upgraded most of mine to brands that work good and last long.  I don’t need top of the line for my occasional use- but I also don’t want to replace them and end up buying something multiple times.  My ‘box’ has changed too.  When the handle broke I decided a drawer in the kitchen would work for a while- it didn’t.  My ten tools ended up scattered about in ten different drawers.  For my replacement I decided to buy a ‘bag’ box.  My tools don’t leave home and I don’t need to close the lid to prevent spilling- so the open bag with pockets turned out to be the better choice for me.  As with everything on the market, there are more than enough styles to fit your needs and just as many price ranges to choose from.  Pick the one that is best for you- just don’t skip the box.  You need a container to keep everything together, and it just happens to be first on the list!  Following is a list of fifteen essentials that add up to less than $200.   I believe it is money well spent to have preparedness, independence and peace of mind-when it comes to caring for your home!

(All prices reflect the least-expensive, good-quality products available at major home-improvement stores.)

1. Toolbox: $30
Start with something to fill.  A good, usable toolbox can save as much time on a job as having the right tools inside.  A five minute job that turns into a half hour because you can’t locate your tools is very frustrating and a huge waste of time.

2. Hammer: $15
A steel-shaft version with a vibration-dampening rubber grip is a good multi-purpose style.   Get a 16-ounce steel- or fiberglass-shaft hammer with a smooth (not checkered) head to avoid unnecessary marring. Choose a model with a straight or “rip” claw, not a curved claw; and sandpaper the face of the hammer once in a while so nails don’t slip off.

3. Pry bar: $15
A 12- to 15-inch pry bar is incredibly handy.  There is one made of hexagonal steel that is infinitely superior to ones that are made of spring steel, which tend to bounce when you hammer them.

4. Vise grips: $10
Also known as locking pliers, vise-grips are the pit bull in your toolbox: Simply adjust the screw drive in the handle and clamp it on to anything that needs viselike stabilizing, typically metal or PVC pipes. When you’re done, the lever in the opposite handle releases the jaws. Channel-lock pliers are a good second choice.

5. Needle-nose pliers: $8
The long, tapering, forged head that gives needle-nose pliers their name is particularly useful in electrical work where spaces can get tight. Get a pair with a wire-cutting blade near the hinge.

6. Screwdrivers (mixed set): $20
You’ll save money and get the most use out of a good-quality mixed set that includes 1/4- and 3/8-inch flat heads and No. 1 and No. 2 Phillips head drivers. Magnetic heads come in handy, too.

7. Wire cutter/stripper: $10

This is a handy plier-like tool that scores and strips the casing off varying gauges of wires to speed electrical jobs.

8. Tape measure (16-foot): $4
Get a good-quality, easy-locking, 3/4-inch-wide model. The half-inchers just don’t stay in place when extended; the one-inchers are overkill.

9. Electrical tester: $2
Forget the fancy gadgets with dials and displays.  You only need the cheapie with two probes and a light to indicate that an electrical current is present.  Remember to test it in a working outlet each time before you use it to make sure it’s still working.  Remember: If it’s dead, you’re dead.

10. Reversible drill with bit set: $40
This 3/8th-inch reversible drill is the only electrical tool that you absolutely, positively have to have. Although stores are filled with cordless varieties, stick with a corded model: They’re lighter, cheaper and never run out of juice.

11. 1/2-inch steel chisel: $10
One of the most ancient tools is also essential as well. When you need a chisel (and you will), there’s really no acceptable substitute. And forget the plastic- and wooden-handled varieties.  The expectation that you’re going to go and find a mallet to hit your chisel is just ridiculous; you’re going to reach for a hammer!

12. Utility knife: $4
Having a utility knife with replaceable blades comes in awfully handy, and again, when you need one there’s really no substitute.

13. Handsaw: $15
If you invest in a circular saw, you may still find few situations in which you’ll need a handsaw. A good choice is the 12-inch FatMax by Stanley; it’s lighter and cuts straighter and faster than traditional handsaws.

14. 9-inch torpedo level: $9
These palm-size levels with the bubble that floats to center are essential to leveling everything from picture frames to kitchen cabinets. If you need to level something long, simply add a board to the level.

15. Safety glasses: $6
There simply is no substitute for effective eye protection.

Return to Page One of January Newsletter

Three Quick Ways to Fix Roof Shingles And Metal Flashings

This guest post may not reflect the views shared by Unique Home Solutions or it’s employees. While we encourage home owners to be aware of their home’s condition, we also encourage you to take any and all safety precautions when working on your home. If a task is too overwhelming we recommend contacting a local contractor such as Unique Home Solutions.

Knowing the difference between a badly damaged roof and one that just has a few wayward shingles is important. Sometimes the roof has hit the wall and is showing too many signs of aging, while other times it could be a case where something underneath the entire roofing infrastructure needs to be repaired, in which case, you call a contractor.

But, for the quick fixers out there, repairing certain parts of the roof is relatively simple if you have the right tools and know what to look for. Here are three important tips for repairing the roof in an orderly fashion.

1. How To Prep Curled Shingles: The curled effect with damaged shingles, usually asphalt and wood styles, is a warning sign that you’d better get to it before water finds an easy entry point. Fixing curled shingles is all about prep work and tools and picking the right weather to do so. First off, curled-up shingles are easier to flatten out during the warmer months because they aren’t as fragile or susceptible to cracking than the winter months. If you must patch up the shingle in the winter, carefully use a small torch near the edges, letting the heat strengthen and expand the corners down. Once they are straight, use some form of roofing cement or heavy-bonded caulk along each corner to seal the shingle in place. Overall, the key to repairing curled-up shingles is having a keen eye and using the necessary products like caulk or specialized cements to do the rest.

2. Fixing Badly Damaged Shingles: When damages are way beyond curled-up shingles and you need to completely detach a whole section, the process is a bit more complex than the previous one, but it’s still manageable. It’s all about knowing if a section’s been compromised, is drier than others or is obviously cracked and split in multiple directions. To replace sections, it’s important to pry loose the damaged shingles carefully, making sure to get all old nails and protected layers beneath out as well because the new shingles will need all new coating and nails. When you place the new shingle in and for some reason or another, it’s too big and you feel like you’re having to jame folded up corners down, try and smooth off the edges until it slides comfortably into place.

With the shingles in place, make sure there’s no excess roofing cement or caulk protruding from the sides and nail down the shingle, making sure to use 1-3/4” nails for best grip. *To make sure you have the best possible leak guard, it might be good to dab a little cement around the rim of each nail because, hey, every sealed opening matters in the end.*

3. Replacing Metal Flashings: Since you’re proactively replacing or fixing shingles, it’s probably a good idea to make sure the metal flashing strips are in good shape as well. Metal flashing strips run between the corners of the roof or any angle where two parts of the roof meet (also called a roof valley) that might allow more water down. Essentially, the strips act as a fortified slide to direct water towards the gutters quicker than normal. So you can see why any damaged or badly laid shingle around this area could potentially have disastrous consequences with leaking.

Which is why before you lay down the strip, make sure to do a once-over on any loose shingles and draw a line from the top of the roof valley on down to the gutter line for each flashing. After the appropriate lengths have been cut, lay down the strips, making sure to dab some more cement on the metal flashing tips. With the flashings firmly in place, it’s time to add the final layer via more roofing shingles, except this time, you have to be mindful of where the nails go. After you’ve formed each shingle to be laid down, it’s important that you don’t put any nails within 6” or closer to the metal flashing borders. After applying the same roofing cement to these shingles and having properly laid down the strips underneath, it’s time for a well-deserved break from the action.

And that’s a pretty swift example of how to fix individual roofing shingles and/or metal flashings. The important thing to remember is that with every home remodeling project, be it a tiny repair to the roof, declogging of the gutters, replacing brick stones in the chimney or any other project for that matter, it’s better to be proactive, follow the steps and take your time. Because in the end, it might just save you some coin.

About the Author:

Kyle is a freelance writer, former contractor and consultant for Roof KC, a local roofing contractor company that deals primarily with roofing repairs, gutter replacement and other exterior remodeling projects.

Young Children & Older Homes: A Dangerous Combination?

Avoid Lead Work Areas if possibleWhy it is that some parents worry about very small amounts of lead in their child’s system while others just don’t care, even when their child’s lead level is to a point where it would be considered a medical emergency? Over several years of working in the lead inspection field, both in a Public Health Department Childhood Lead Poisoning Prevention Program (CLPPP) and as a Private Risk Assessor/Lead Inspector, I have seen almost every reaction a parent might have about their child having lead poisoning. I have heard the question “I had lead poisoning, my mom had lead poisoning, my grandmother had lead poisoning, why do I care about my kid having lead poisoning?” way too many times. I have worked on cases where the parents actually fed lead paint chips to their children to increase their blood lead level in order to sue the property owner. Other homeowners choose the aesthetics of their home over the well being of their children by refusing to remove the problem and allowing continued exposure to their child that, for example, bites on windowsills.

The parent that gets worried when their child has a low blood lead level, even below the CDC level of concern, is on the right track, although it is sometimes difficult to get people to recognize this fact. Even low levels of lead, below the Center for Disease Control (CDC) level of concern (10 micrograms/deciliter of blood), can cause adverse health effects. Typically there are no noticeable symptoms of lead poisoning, but because lead is a neurotoxin even low levels can cause decreased IQ and neurological problems. When symptoms do appear, they usually will present as loss of appetite, learning and reading difficulties, slower reflexes, and behavioral problems. For the most part, lead poisoning in children is found by routine blood tests instead of complaints about symptoms. Unfortunately, when a child does show effects of lead poisoning, the majority of the time those effects are permanent.

There are several places that one might find lead‐based paint, but the nation’s number one contributing source of lead poisoning is our own homes. Homes built before 1978 are considered to have lead‐based paint until proven “lead free” or “lead safe” by a licensed inspector. Painted, stained, and varnished surfaces, both inside and outside, of these properties have the potential to contain lead at dangerous levels. The lead in these coatings can turn to dust, which can then poison children. Other sources of lead might be from soil, drinking water, and household products and toys. As our understanding and awareness of lead poisoning increases, our defensive actions against this issue get stronger. Federal (Environmental Protection Agency) and state governments are passing more stringent lead laws, the Consumer Safety Product Commission (CSPC) is recalling more and more products, and as a result, fewer children are testing with high lead levels in their blood.

Although removing household lead by way of lead abatement can be costly, most parents are unaware of very simple and inexpensive steps they can take to help protect themselves and their family from lead poisoning. One of the most important things you can do is clean your house in a way that properly removes lead dust. Use wet cleaning methods, don’t sweep or use a regular household vacuum, but use a vacuum with a HEPA filter and then wet mop clean. Parents should also wash their children’s toys, hard or soft, on a regular basis. Another great way to reduce your risk is have everyone take their shoes off at the door. That way you are not bringing lead in on your shoes from the outside environment. If there is bare soil in your yard, cover it so that children and pets (that can bring lead dust inside on their fur) don’t play in it. It is also important to make sure your child washes their hands before they eat and before they go to bed. These suggestions may seem obvious, but a number of the parents I have spoken to were surprised that these simple steps could make a difference. Most other parents were already doing most of these things and only needed some adjustments to how they implement these practices.

Another great way to help prevent lead poisoning is to consume a proper diet that is high in iron, calcium, and vitamin C. Lead can interfere with functions that your body normally uses iron and calcium for, and at times of low iron and calcium blood levels, your body can easily mistake lead as one of these elements. In addition, if your body contains the proper amounts of iron and calcium, it will not absorb lead into your system as readily. I once worked with a family that had two children with lead poisoning that ate at a local fast food restaurant for all meals of the day. Their refrigerator contained only bottled water and soda and their cupboards were bare. It is very likely that the children in this family had low iron and calcium levels, which increased their lead absorption. While it is clear that children require a proper diet to develop properly, it is not well known that this is also true for helping to prevent lead poisoning. This is due to the fact that a proper diet reduces the amount of lead absorbed and increases the amount of lead excreted by the body.

Finally, when it comes to lead and lead poisoning, one of the best things you can do is ask questions. Hire only EPA or State Lead Certified contractors if you are going to remodel your home and find someone you trust to answer your questions and get the knowledge you need to protect your family from the devastating long term, and sometimes lethal, effects of lead exposure.

This guest post was written by Adam Kinney a Consulting Manager and Lead Inspector/Instructor for the Institute for Environmental Education.

IEE trains over 5,000 students per year for clientele including governmental agencies, hospitals, schools, branches of the armed services, businesses and non-profit groups. IEE also offers consulting services for lead, asbestos and safety/compliance plans.

Follow Adam on Twitter: @IEE_Lead_Insp

Unique Home Solutions is Indiana's trusted home remodeler, our services include replacement windows, vinyl siding replacement, attic insulation, exterior doors, gutter protection, bathroom remodeling, kitchen remodeling and basement waterproofing. We serve all of Central Indiana, including Indianapolis, Bloomington, Muncie, Lafayette, Carmel, Terre Haute, Columbus, West Lafayette, Anderson, Kokomo, Noblesville, & Richmond, IN. We offer vinyl replacement windows, vinyl siding, metal roofing, shingle roofing, bathroom remodels, kitchen remodels, basement waterproofing, replacement doors, gutters, and insulation.
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